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'Tràigh Bàn nam Manach (white beach of the monks)’. Mixed media on 16x16" wood. Rose Strang 2026

White beach of the monks

Above: Tràigh Bàn nam Manach (white beach of the monks). Mixed media on 16×16″ wood. Rose Strang 2026

You know this view very well if you’ve walked the beaches of Iona. And what a lovely, poetic name the beach has: Tràigh Bàn nam Manach (pronounced trree baan nam manach). Trill the the ‘r’ like you’re lightly breathing out the word ‘tree’ fast and that gives you that silent but still there ‘gh’ in ‘traigh’). Now read it out with the emphasis in bold above, and you get the poetic rhythm of it.

All the more surprising, then, that this particular beach is named for the monks who died there in one of many Viking massacres that took place around Britain between the 8th to late 10th centuries.

This massacre of fifteen monks and an Abbot took place in AD 986. It’s difficult for us, or the average person at least, to imagine the mindset of either Vikings, or the monks of Iona at that time. 986 seems so long ago to us, and to them too, Calum Cille’s time would have been several centuries ago.

But that mindset endured. Their way of thinking was not so much self-sacrificial. It was more that their vows to protect all that was sacred came before their life itself.They wouldn’t run when attacked.

So if Vikings (whose belief was that fearlessly, skilfully fighting and killing for what you wanted was the pinnacle of human endeavour) decided they liked the look of your land or anything else, they’d just take it. ‘Immovable object meets irresistible force’ you could say.

It’s not what you feel, walking along that beach. In fact, back in 2018 I was painting within the very rocks on which the monks were killed, and I didn’t ‘pick up’ on anything dark there at all.

Those monks were reconciled to their death in ways we find humbling and strange today. Like ancient Japanese poets of Haiku, they attended to the here and now, the Zen of everyday life.

Years ago I bought a collection of Irish verse from ancient to modern times and my favourites were those anonymous, very early, Haiku-like monastic verses, take this one for example:

How lovely it is today!

The sunlight breaks and flickers

on the margin of my book

And immediately I’m transported to Iona in the 8th century, where a monk sits at his lectern. Or perhaps outside amongst the marram grass, as he illuminates a manuscript on a lovely day in spring, his hands warmed at last, finding beauty in the way light falls on the margins of his parchment. Feeling gratitude for simple things in the here and now.

'Tràigh Bàn nam Manach (white beach of the monks)’. Mixed media on 16x16" wood. Rose Strang 2026

‘Tràigh Bàn nam Manach (white beach of the monks)’. Mixed media on 16×16″ wood. Rose Strang 2026

 

 

'Caol Ì (Sound of Iona)'. Mixed media on 16x16" wood. Rose Strang 2026

Caol Ì (The Sound of Iona)

Above: Caol Ì (The Sound of Iona). Mixed media on 16×16″ wood. Rose Strang 2026.

I’ve always found the name of the narrow channel of water between Iona and Mull poetic: The Sound of Iona, or in Scottish Gaelic, Caol Ì. Pronounced ‘Cuhl’ like the ‘u’ in ‘numb’. If you want to get fussy, the ‘L’ is pulled or rolled back in the throat, almost like a Spanish ‘L’. In original Gaelic, it means ‘narrow’ or ‘slender’. and  Ì simply means ‘Iona’, which is the original name of Iona, and is pronounced ‘Eee’.

It would have been called ‘Ì Chaluim Chille‘, meaning ‘The Island of the church of Calum Cille from the time Calum Cille arrived on the island but apparently it was always called  ‘Ì’. 

Hmm, that just means ‘island’ so they must have distinguished it in some way, in the name. Who knows?

Calum Cille was a powerful figure in the history of the Celtic Christian early church, which I’ve written about elsewhere. He was an exiled Irish prince and a well-trained warrior. However, it’s well-documented historically that he led a group of monks according to Christian principles, which you’d imagine would include peaceable ways.

Which brings us back to my painting, which attempts to capture the particular peace of gentle Hebridean rain, standing on Traigh Ban nam Manach (the white shore of the monks) looking towards Mull across the Sound.

In recent years, the Iona Community (an ecumenical Christian group on the island, who run religious programmes through Iona Abbey) have incorporated Celtic pagan forms of worship with Christian, which means a slant towards God in landscape and nature. This is a real Scottish tradition of the Hebrides, since there were not always churches in remote islands, so finding religious meaning in the clouds, the land and light or dark was just what people did.

Here’s a well-known prayer from Iona:

‘Silence.

Be still

and aware of God’s presence

within and all around.’

Here’s the painting again. Wishing you a peaceful week …

'Caol Ì (Sound of Iona)'. Mixed media on 16x16" wood. Rose Strang 2026

‘Caol Ì (Sound of Iona)’. Mixed media on 16×16″ wood. Rose Strang 2026

Bac Mor from Iona. Mixed media on 16x16" wood. Rose Strang 2026

Bac Mòr from Iona

Above: Bac Mòr from Iona. Mixed media on 16×16″ wood. Rose Strang 2026.

Here’s a video of it being painted …

 

A zoomable version of the painting below, and some details …

Bac Mor from Iona. Mixed media on 16x16" wood. Rose Strang 2026

Bac Mor from Iona. Mixed media on 16×16″ wood. Rose Strang 2026

This painting was created half in situ on the north beack of Iona, and half in the studio.

It was quite challenging conditions with the sands crumbling beneath me and waves splashing against the rocks as the tide came in. Great fun, I really do enjoy en plein air painting, and feel less moved by painting in the studio.

Having said that, this has been improved by scraping back the original, which creates an almost fresco effect, then adding back in some subtler sea tones and details to the rock pool.

Here are three images showing process. You can see I’ve scraped it back to the plywood beneath in the second one. And you can see how unfinished the first one was, thanks to a rapidly incoming tide …

More soon …

 

 

'Eilean Annraidh from Iona'. Mixed media on 16x16" wood. Rose Strang 2026

Eilean Annraidh from Iona

Above: Eilean Annraidh from Iona. Mixed media on 16×16″ wood. Rose Strang 2026.
The above is pronounced AY-lun AN-ray, meaning The Island of Storms. I’m not worried about people stumbling over the Gaelic pronunciation of these paintings, given that everyone at The Resipole Gallery is familiar with Gaelic and will happily help anyone with correct pronunciation.
This series, including yesterday’s painting, and five more, is destined for an upcoming exhibition at the Resipole titled Facing West. Today’s painting, painted en plein air on Iona, is actually facing north east, but since Iona is in the far western Hebrides of Scotland, I think it counts as westerly.

'Eilean Annraidh from Iona'. Mixed media on 16x16" wood. Rose Strang 2026

‘Eilean Annraidh from Iona’. Mixed media on 16×16″ wood. Rose Strang 2026

This little bar of bright sand viewed from Tràigh Bàn Nam Manach (White Strand of the Monks) is very familiar to anyone from Iona, or anyone who’s visited. We were chatting with people who work in Columba’s Hotel on Iona, both of whom had kayaked there. They told me it actually protects the north east beach from storms, acting as a little breakwater.

Adam and I had dropped in there for a much needed coffee on our way back from painting, and Allie, one of the staff there, really loved the painting, so I asked if they’d like a print of it. They definitely did, so if you ever visit Iona and drop in to the Columba, you’ll spot it somewhere!
This view always looks so striking against the deep blue/purple drama of Mull, which is why this exact same scene has been painted hundreds of times. Especially since the colourists made it famous. They stayed at the nearby cottage of Lagandorain (place of the otters) while painting Iona in the 1920s or thereabouts, and it would take them just a few minutes to walk down to the beach.
Painting on the beach, the light changing all the time…

And a video…


More tomorrow, from the north beach, getting closer up to the sea…

'Port Grulainn, Iona'. Mixed media on 16x16" wood. Rose Strang 2026

Ì Mo Chridhe

Above. Port Grulainn. Iona. Mixed media on 16×16″ wood. Rose Strang 2026

It never fails. Every time I walk on to the ferry and watch the island approach, it feels like I’m entering a different realm, somewhere magical and sacred.

I’m not alone in that, probably thousands of people visit Iona each year, seeking something meaningful in this island with its deep spiritual history. Maybe the effect is intensified by each successive visit.

It’s not always sweetness and light there, but that’s the nature of real relationships isn’t it? Whatever you have going on, you bring with you to Iona, or Iona presents a challenge, and then nearly always, something shifts into place.

I always feel a rush of excitement anyway. I suppose everyone feels something of that when approaching an island. All the stories you read as a kid too; Stevenson’s Treasure Island,  Enid Blyton’s The Secret Island (yes, she had some dodgy views, but her description of kids going off to an island, unbeknownst to adults, totally captured childhood adventure!)

There’s the Orcadian island ancestry that goes deep into the past on my dad’s maternal and paternal sides. But then, that’s probably the ancestry of half of Scotland! I lived there for a year when I was about 19 and never felt the affinity for Orkney that I do for Iona.

I’ve always imagined I’ll have my ashes scattered there one day. If there’s anyone around when I’m gone to make that happen. I never imagined I’d get married there, but I did! In my mid-fifties, in St Odhrain’s Chapel.

It was perfect. And it felt earned in a way, because there were many times I’d come to Iona alone, to paint, or to attempt escape from life’s struggles and disappointments. I remember the winter there 2018, when I went to Iona as part of an artist’s residency on the north end of the island and felt quite overwhelmed by the intensity of it all, the people staying there and my own history.

Since our wedding in 2023 though, the island seems to welcome us with open arms. We’ve made new friends, most recently with a documentary-maker and his artist partner. It turned out he’d made some of my favourite documentaries of all time! Extreme Pilgrim, for example, or Going Tribal and Around the World in 80 Faiths, to name a few.

I met them in the kitchen on our last day there last year, and when they said they planned to get married on Iona, I felt very touched. We chatted away animatedly, they came over to meet Adam, and I felt we’d made real friends in those minutes before we rushed off to the ferry.

After that we met up a few times, and then, of course, it turned out their visit to Iona this year overlapped with ours. Happy days.

I’m supposed to be blogging about painting here though. After we’d settled in to the campsite, caught up with our friends, celebrated our anniversary, and Adam’s birthday! it was time to start painting.

I usually head towards the north of the island, where the sea is always enchantingly green, but this time we decided to wander around to the west beaches as the sea looked amazing that day. We could see the waves from our tent on Cnoc Oran, but I think it was probably the romantic story of the marriage proposal of our new Iona friends that led us there too.

I’m actually slightly scared, if also entranced, by the sea. It really focusses the mind to be almost standing in the surf as you paint …

More tomorrow…

ascribed to SAINT COLUMBA

 An I Mo Chridhe

 An I mo chridhe, I mo ghràidh
 An àite guth manaich bidh geum bà;
 Ach mun tig an saoghal gu crìch
 Bithidh I mar a bha.

 In Iona of my heart, Iona of my love,
 Instead of monks’ voices shall be lowing of cattle,
 But ere the World come to an end
 Iona shall be as it was.
                         Traditional translation

Lime Blossom

Above: Lime Blossom at Leopold Place. Charcoal on A4 paper. Rose Strang 2026.

Lime Blossom, Linden, Tilleul, Tilia, or to give it its classic Latin name; Tilia Cordata. It’s one of the most elusive, romantic and emotionally resonant scents, and as each year passes I find myself more and more entranced and obsessed by its aroma. Something to do with ageing and the symbology of it all? The inexorable scythe that begins to hover over the head as we approach our later lives?!!

Today was so rainy and cold we decided to stay in Edinburgh rather than drive to Fairhill (otherwise known as Pishwanton) to sketch fern and birch.

I thought I’d sketch, in the comfort of the house, a lime blossom leaf, but it felt so wrong not to work from life, outdoors (I’m bored of the term en plein air). I’ve got used to the charge, or aura of the real subject, now that I’m focussing on straightfoward observation for a while (as part of my ongoing Fairhill series, which you can read about in my previous blogs.)

So I got my sketch pad and charcoal and walked along to the park on Leopold Place at the end of my street, to sketch the Limeblossom trees. And that immediately felt better. I was only there about 20 minutes, but it felt good to pay homage to one of my favourite trees.

When I returned, I began to make dinner and a young buzzard (still slightly fluffy, in appearance if not personality) arrived on the tree outside our kitchen window, terrifying all the local birds. Fascinating to see such a sight in the city – he was something to observe to quote from Peter Gabriel’s Solsbury Hill!

It was somewhat grim watching him eat a pigeon, but mesmerising to watch such a bird up close. The local tits (and I don’t refer to my fellow Leithers!) and pigeons swooped up onto the opposite roofs, not daring to return to their favourite tree. It made up for missing out on our hare at Fairhill today.

Back to lime blossoms though, they don’t properly emerge until June. This year I’m ready for them, and I’ll be posting about it on instagram every week or so, as the moment of ‘peak’ lime blossom approaches.

This is to celebrate the 1st anniversary of writing about perfume and scent on my perfume-related Substack and instagram, since my first ever post was about lime blossom last year. You can read or follow them on these links …

The Perfume Papers (Substack)  and on Instagram Rose Strang Perfume

Forest of Fairhill 6

Above: Birch Trees. Fairhill 2. 18th April. Charcoal on A4 paper. Rose Strang 2026

A gaggle of geese greeted us today at Fairhill, one chased after me for a while with its neck extended and tongue out, hissing like a wild cat. The ground was covered in rook-droppings from the Scots Pines above us. The whole energy had picked up and as soon as we walked into the trees I could feel the humidity and scents of late spring rising up from the grass. All of nature waking up.

(I’m taking notes and writing a blog post each time I go to Fairhill, which is a piece of forest land owned and managed by the Life Science Centre, which is informed by Goethean science and philosophy. My trips to Fairhill are my record of a Goethean approach to observation – bringing a deeper awareness and understanding of nature. Sketching is an important part).

The resident hare greeted us at the edge of the birch forest and bounded off, its black ear tips visible every so often. We went back to the same spot. I looked for my tightly coiled fern from last time, but there were so many, after just one week, all popping up their spiral heads in varying states of unfurling.

I sketched a couple of those and the birch forest in pencil first. Then three sketches in charcoal.

It sounds obvious, but I was really aware of the fact that efforts to draw or sketch trees weren’t working, what worked was drawing the patches of light, pattern and shade. This is drawing level 1, but it’s interesting how I forget! I wanted to sketch  birch leaves, but two hours had past, it was 5pm and time to head to Gifford.

To say it was a beautiful day is inadequate. I felt like I’d been dropped into a film about a rural idyll, one that would win awards for amazing cinematogrpahy. but better because of all the scents. Adam recorded the sounds of Fairhill as we came in – crawing rooks, swaying trees, hissing geese. It will make a great soundtrack for an exhibition at some point maybe.

Gifford was a continuation of the being-dropped-in-a-film mood, with 1940s music playing, old crackelure-d paintings and super-polite friendly staff who asked us how our day had been and plied us with afternoon scones.

I meant to write more about Goblin Ha near Gifford. I’ll do that next time.

At the moment I’m building up feature pages about our Traces project. I’m keeping it password protected while we develop the project and organise a private screening of the film and showing of paintings. If you’re interested in learning more, here’s a link to an essay about the ideas behind the Traces project, and here’s an interview with me, about Traces, by art collector and author Robert de Mey.

If these resonate with you, and you’d like get in touch about it, contact me and I’ll send a link to the password protected page. rose.strang@gmail.com

 

The Medieval Way of Seeing, an essay by Rose Strang

Above: detail from Forest of Luffness 1. Oil on 30×30″ canvas. Rose Strang 2025 (photograph: Adam Brewster)

The following is an essay by Rose Strang, to accompany a project called Traces. More information at the end of the essay.

 

The Medieval Way of Seeing (by Rose Strang, 2026)

Gold and fine silver, carmine and leaded white, indigo, lignite bright and clear, an emerald after it has just been split, placed in that dell would see their brightness fade against the colours of the grass and flowers.

Dante Alighieri, Purgatorio, Canto VIII

 In some sort of crude sense, which no vulgarity, no humour, no overstatement can quite extinguish, the physicists have known sin; and this is a knowledge which they cannot lose. Robert Oppenheimer (1947 lecture “Physics in the Contemporary World”.)

Why does a ruined friary, or an 800-year-old crusader effigy matter now? What can the medieval way of understanding the cosmos offer our fragmented present?

This was the challenge presented to everyone who took part in a contemplative journey to Luffness in June 2024.

The medieval mind operated with a fundamentally different framework to ours. It integrated layers of reality, perception, and imagination: a thing could be matter and meaning, physical and symbolic, particular and universal. The medieval worldview saw reality as symphonic; a synthesis where all is connected within overall harmony. This is exemplified in medieval cosmological thought and in their application of cosmological symbolism to interpret the material and spiritual worlds.

That the Medieval era also saw acts of terrible violence overshadows this harmonious view of the cosmos. Extensive evidence of brutality has perhaps come to represent the medieval past more than the visions that characterised co-existing peaceable realities, as indeed these forces co-exist today.

Dante described Purgatory’s valley, where emeralds, split open, might fade against the almost unbearably luminous grass. Six centuries later Rutherford, Cockcroft and Walton were credited with splitting the atom. Oppenheimer then developed this into the atom bomb, subsequently observing that ‘knowledge of sin’ cannot be lost. How can we, all of us, navigate threshold states between the desire to know more, to control, and to refrain?

The medieval belief was this: life is best understood not solely through intellect but through the whole spectrum of human response. Science offers facts; the medieval mind accepted facts alongside ‘the cloud of unknowing’. They embraced paradox.

Our rejection of the medieval view of the universe has diminished our capacity to understand ideas as interconnected, layered, or able to exist in parallel.

There remain, even now, ways of attending to the world that resist reduction to a single frame: observation of natural phenomena; the act of walking as a form of enquiry and contemplative practices that suspend immediate judgement in favour of sustained attention. These approaches do not reject knowledge, but deepen it, allowing different kinds of understanding to coexist.

Contemporary education trains us to see one layer at a time: the scientist sees cells, the economist resources, the tourist scenery. We fragment knowledge into competing specialisations, each claiming exclusive truth, creating a selective amnesia, and an inability to integrate complexity. When science operates on materialist grounds alone, divorced from ethical dimension, we begin to understand what the physicist’s “knowledge of sin” might mean: technologies of destruction, power without wisdom.

These ideas become material in the ‘threshold trilogy’ of Traces, which embodies this tension. Created following winter visits to the friary at Luffness, it explores the opposing forces of historical violence and spiritual seeking.

In one painting a wraithlike figure emerges from catastrophe , hovering above charred remains. The faint presence of David de Lindsay (the figure commemorated by the stone effigy at Luffness Friary) hovers in liminal blue depths, imagining home while he dies from battle wounds in the Egyptian Crusades of the thirteenth century.

These works explore unpalatable contradictions: crusader as perpetrator and penitent, Christianity used as instrument of conquest, or

aspiration towards grace. When we perceive only one dimension of reality at a time, we no longer navigate paradox or recognise that multiple truths might coexist without contradiction. We lose the integrative thinking that prevents us reducing complexity into simplistic binaries. In an era of intensifying polarisation (political, cultural, epistemological) this loss is profound.

An 800-year-old crusader effigy matters because it embodies the very complexity we’ve lost. The medieval crusades were brutal exercises of power, yet the medieval mind also gave us the ability to synthesise different ways of understanding the world.

When contemporary extremists adopt crusader imagery, they enable fragmented thinking by taking a symbol and flattening it to single meaning, stripping away the complexity that the medieval world embraced. Recovering more complex ways of knowing is essential, if we are to understand the reductionist thinking that feeds fundamentalist beliefs and cynicism.

David de Lindsay‘s motivations towards fighting in the crusades, or founding a friary and seeking redemption, cannot be understood through contemporary either/or thinking. The Forest paintings of Traces document the pilgrimage to this effigy with Richard Demarco, whose lifelong philosophy embodies this medieval integrative approach. In these paintings, figures remain deliberately small within the cathedral-like forest, dwarfed by something larger than themselves.

Traces demonstrates this medieval capacity to perceive multiple dimensions simultaneously. The forest paintings show intergenerational pilgrimage just as Traces, the documentary film, captures Richard Demarco at 93 and the youngest member of the group – baby Atlas (the son of my niece, Emma Mases-Strang and her partner Manuel Pennuto, who created the documentary).

During the day at Luffness, Richard asked the new parents; “Will you tell Atlas about me when I’m gone?” In the documentary Richard and Atlas alone look directly at the camera. Breaking the fourth wall, they seem to ask the viewer a question; what, in the end, passes between us and those who come after?

Time becomes symphonic: the 800-year-old effigy, Demarco’s enduring memory of post-war Europe and the friary’s broken arch, which stands as the project’s central symbol of our fractured present.  Yet, the act of walking there together, witnessing what is past, what exists and what we leave to posterity, enacts a medieval way of seeing and a way to seek deeper truth through shared acts of pilgrimage.

Rose Strang 2026

Quotes

Oppenheimer, J.R., 1947. Physics in the Contemporary World. Available at: https://www.oxfordreference.com/display/10.1093/acref/9780191826719.001.0001/q-oro-ed4-00007996

Dante Alighieri, Purgatorio, Canto VII, quoted in Jason M. Baxter, The Medieval Mind of C. S. Lewis: How Great Books Shaped a Great Mind. InterVarsity Press, 2022), page 50.

Bibliography

Lewis, C. S. The Discarded Image. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, repr.2013

Ward, Michael. Planet Narnia. The Seven Heavens in the Imagination of C.S. Lewis. Oxford University Press. 2008.

Baxter, Jason M. The Medieval Mind of C. S. Lewis: How Great Books Shaped a Great Mind. InterVarsity Press, 2022.

Traces is a project in development, featuring paintings by Rose Strang and a documentary film by Manuel Pennuto.

A password-protected page contains the film trailer, a lead painting, and full information about the project, including details for curators and venue partners. Access is freely available on request: please write to rose.strang@gmail.com for the password.

Fairhill and Goblin Ha’

Above: Birch Trees. Fairhill. 18th April. Charcoal on A4 paper. Rose Strang 2026

The same hare that greeted us at Fairhill appeared on cue as we arrived, bounding through the birches.

Given that I was there to let nature speak to me, rather than impose my big artist’s ego onto the scene, I decided to follow it! It veered off just before the willow shelter, I looked down and saw a tightly curled fern amidst the swaying slender birches and though ‘this’ll do’.

This is my first litle foray into a Goethean approach to observation. At the first stage – you just draw exactly what you see.  A bit like going back to art college. I enjoyed it though. There’s no harm in slowing down to simply observe.

It struck me how both the fern and the birches grow up in spurts, with each burst of energy marked by a band, or leaf. The fern looked so tightly coiled, almost hairy-looking with its fronds, slightly unsettling. These bands showing growth are most marked in bamboo, which reminded me of Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. The way the bamboos swayed so mysteriously, just like the sun-dappled birches that swayed above my head as I drew. And again there was that strange sensation I had last time, the noise of the trees almost sounding like speech. Maybe there was a birch forest here hundreds of years ago, when it was called Fairy Hill, and this sussuration (which to the human ear, seeking patterns, sounds almost like voices) led to the name of the place.

Adam painted a watercolour, then, our legs stiffened up by kneeling on the damp moss (we’re getting too old for all this kneeling and will bring fold-out stools next time!) we decided to head off in search of Goblin Ha’ in the valley of Yester. As we drove off, the large hare ran alongside to see us off!

We searched for Goblin Ha’ last Sunday in the pouring rain and mud. And when I say mud, I mean that there were serious levels and amounts of it. This weekend the sun was out thankfully, but the mud was still in full force.

 

I’d been begining to wonder if this ha’ (meaning ‘hall’) was even real. Last week as we returned to the car drenched and puggled, I was speculating on whether it might just be an elaborate hoax by the people who own the Yester estate. Maybe they film us struggling through the mud for entertainment, and the images of the hall I’d see online were ai.

Well …

We found it!

More on Fairhill and its mysterious surrounds in a couple of weeks.

Spring Exhibition

Above: Birch Trees and Willow Shelter 2. Mixed media on 14×14″ wood 2. Rose Strang 2026

Newly framed and ready to go. These three paintings of the Fairhill woodland near Yester Valley, East Lothian will be part of the spring group exhibition at The Limetree Gallery, Bristol, opening Saturday 25th April.

For enquiries please contact Limetree Gallery directly on this link – Contact

All paintings are on 14 by 14 inch wood in lime-washed obeche-wood frames.

#painting #scottishartist #woodland #pleinair #oilpainting #birchtrees #limetreegallery #edinburghartist #forestpainting